Tips & Pics Page
How to cut the ends of logs
so they appear to have a faller's cut:
Click on any image for a larger view.
The razor saw is your chainsaw!
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This one got a little toasty cuz I did it on the chop saw.
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Because these logs are made from real woods such as cedar and bamboo, a cross-section will reveal the lighter wood coloring as seen on real logs.
In any given load of logs, whether on a rail car or trunk, one will identify the “faller’s cut” as a log end with protruding, sharp points. This is the butt end of the tree whereby the logger cutting the tree (the faller) used a chainsaw or, in times past, two fallers used a “misery whip” saw (aka “two-man saw”) to make the falling cuts. In a nutshell this is done by cutting out a wedge on one side and then making a horizontal cut from the other side. When everything goes as planned the tree will fall toward the wedge side. So, one might examine these cuts more closely so that they could be modeled:
In any given load of logs, whether on a rail car or trunk, one will identify the “faller’s cut” as a log end with protruding, sharp points. This is the butt end of the tree whereby the logger cutting the tree (the faller) used a chainsaw or, in times past, two fallers used a “misery whip” saw (aka “two-man saw”) to make the falling cuts. In a nutshell this is done by cutting out a wedge on one side and then making a horizontal cut from the other side. When everything goes as planned the tree will fall toward the wedge side. So, one might examine these cuts more closely so that they could be modeled:
- The “wedge cut”, “notch cut”, “front notch” or “undercut “; this is actually composed of two cuts.
- The back notch” or “felling cut”. This can be either a single cut or another wedge cut.
- The portion that remains in-between cuts is called the “bridge” or “holding wood“. This will project from the log end and will be readily visible in log piles and on log loads of all sorts.
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We purposely make the stock log material longer than what is usually needed so that the faller’s cuts can be made. Use a razor saw to make the cuts and snap off the remainder using fingers or pliers. When done carefully this will produce the bridge, which is the uncut timber that snaps during the felling.
Not every log will feature a bridge: as the log is cut into sections, those divisions will be made with two cuts; one from the top down and more than halfway through. After the log is rolled the second cut is made intersecting the first. This is not a clean, flat cut. Often it can be observed where the cuts made from each side intersected enough to divide the log but were not perfectly aligned. This will leave a shallow step-like mark in the log end. Again this can be mimicked with a razor saw.
The log ends can be further stained a yellow-orange hue using thin dilute washes of powder dyes. I recommend Rit Orange and Rit Yellow powder dyes. A little internet research, e.g. Google “logs” and “logging”, should get you to pictures of logs that will give you an idea of how the coloring of the ends appears yellow-orange.
Not every log will feature a bridge: as the log is cut into sections, those divisions will be made with two cuts; one from the top down and more than halfway through. After the log is rolled the second cut is made intersecting the first. This is not a clean, flat cut. Often it can be observed where the cuts made from each side intersected enough to divide the log but were not perfectly aligned. This will leave a shallow step-like mark in the log end. Again this can be mimicked with a razor saw.
The log ends can be further stained a yellow-orange hue using thin dilute washes of powder dyes. I recommend Rit Orange and Rit Yellow powder dyes. A little internet research, e.g. Google “logs” and “logging”, should get you to pictures of logs that will give you an idea of how the coloring of the ends appears yellow-orange.
Go Back to the Logs etc page...click here
Add a Rooty Base to your Trees
You can increase the realism factor in just a few minutes by adding a roots and width where the trunk intersects the layout. All that's needed is a water-based wood putty material known as Famowood. This is used by cabinetmakers and woodcrafters to fill small holes in their work. Although there are several colors available, I have had luck using the Walnut version. I like the water-based formulas as there are no dangerous fumes. Click to enlarge pictures.
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Under normal room temps of around 60-70 or so
this material is dry in a few hours for thicknesses less than 1/8th inch. |
After using a toothbrush or similar tool to add texture to the base, follow up with a bit of ground foam such as Woodland's Fine Earth, Burnt Grass, and/or Coarse Conifer.
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Adding Dead Branches to the trees for more realism
Adding Dead Branches to the trees:
I usually but not always add the dead branches after I've put the green branches in place.
I usually but not always add the dead branches after I've put the green branches in place.
- Use smaller ones, not so much the larger ones.
- Err on the side of shorter rather than longer
- Trim branches so that the bifurcations (branching parts) are near the trunk, not far away.
- Use a small dab of hot glue to fix the dead branch in place.
- "Paint" full-strength white glue around the joint. This will make the joint much stronger.
- Hot glue "threads" can be removed using a pipe cleaner or by gentle heat like from a hair dryer.
- Very short ones near the tree base. For some strange reason they're always shortest at the base (an observation). Make them longer as you ascend the tree.
Go Back to Dead Branches...click here
Branch distribution patterns observed on older trees
Adding a bit of Lichen Color
This "minty-colored" paint is what I used for the lichen effect. It is the final step in making what I call a Premium tree.
I make the brush from chip brush hairs, hot glue, and a chopstick. "A light touch is all it takes", a master tree maker once told me. :) |
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