the News Page
01/20/2020: With the S scale Lighthouse Model now complete, I am rubbing my paws in anticipation of getting some "work done" on my SP Tillamook Branch. Here's where I'm at right now:
Roger's SP Tillamook Branch Layout, Wheeler to the Navy Hangar, circa 1950-60's?
This isn't quite the whole layout. To the right it curves around and you'll find the area known as Batterson, the Nehalem River, and associated forests.
This baby's ripe for industries. I have a lumber mill there off to the right. Yes, those are toilet paper tubes standing in for a grain bin /mixing complex there on the left. The Trask river runs right through the middle. The Miami and bay area about Garibaldi is to the right of center. The side-by-side short and long trestles are definitely not accurate. However, as a switching layout, I just felt I needed a bit more going on so I added the long trestle & branch after the original plan. That branch, at the far edge, will run through the Navy Blimp Hangar which is still present today (albeit rusty).
I had planned on modeling 1980's or early 90's. Then, after running those 70+ foot centerbeams about for a while, I thought better of it and I figure I can do more with less, meaning shorter cars on this setup. So, right now I'm pondering the 50's, perhaps late 50's, perhaps the 60's, but I want out of those large gons and pretty much anything over 53'. I'd like to keep the GP-9 as it is battery op Stanton S-CAB LiPo and works great! No wires except for the switches.
Switches: Speaking of which, I have employed the homespun turnout power with the SG90 servos found on eBay and elsewhere. I designed & 3D printed a retainer clip for each servo for under the table mounting. The little servo just snaps right in and there's 3 tabs with holes for running a short screw through. You can also use aluminum U shape channel but I couldn't find it where I live. A smaller hole permits passing of the piano wire that passes up through the layout and into the turnout's drawbar. I modified most of my Atlas or Microscale turnouts by soldering on my own drawbars and later adding a brass tab to each with 3 holes as options to accept the piano wire. I then wired to a double pole double throw momentary contact center-off switch. There are five diodes at the power source which is just a cell phone charger. The diodes each lower the voltage of the charger by 7/10 volt and also prevent overheating. I tried resistors for a while, best luck with 100 ohms, but they do heat up which results in increased resistance, low voltage, and high current, as I understand it. The charger is 5V so five of them reduce it to 5-3.5=1.5 V. It is necessary to open up each servo and cut the 3 wires short, and solder new wires to the + and - terminals to surpass the circuitry. This of course was all a learning process but I'd be happy to share and I should post photos. Total cost each servo about $3 and with other parts I think it's under $5 each turnout for sure.
This baby's ripe for industries. I have a lumber mill there off to the right. Yes, those are toilet paper tubes standing in for a grain bin /mixing complex there on the left. The Trask river runs right through the middle. The Miami and bay area about Garibaldi is to the right of center. The side-by-side short and long trestles are definitely not accurate. However, as a switching layout, I just felt I needed a bit more going on so I added the long trestle & branch after the original plan. That branch, at the far edge, will run through the Navy Blimp Hangar which is still present today (albeit rusty).
I had planned on modeling 1980's or early 90's. Then, after running those 70+ foot centerbeams about for a while, I thought better of it and I figure I can do more with less, meaning shorter cars on this setup. So, right now I'm pondering the 50's, perhaps late 50's, perhaps the 60's, but I want out of those large gons and pretty much anything over 53'. I'd like to keep the GP-9 as it is battery op Stanton S-CAB LiPo and works great! No wires except for the switches.
Switches: Speaking of which, I have employed the homespun turnout power with the SG90 servos found on eBay and elsewhere. I designed & 3D printed a retainer clip for each servo for under the table mounting. The little servo just snaps right in and there's 3 tabs with holes for running a short screw through. You can also use aluminum U shape channel but I couldn't find it where I live. A smaller hole permits passing of the piano wire that passes up through the layout and into the turnout's drawbar. I modified most of my Atlas or Microscale turnouts by soldering on my own drawbars and later adding a brass tab to each with 3 holes as options to accept the piano wire. I then wired to a double pole double throw momentary contact center-off switch. There are five diodes at the power source which is just a cell phone charger. The diodes each lower the voltage of the charger by 7/10 volt and also prevent overheating. I tried resistors for a while, best luck with 100 ohms, but they do heat up which results in increased resistance, low voltage, and high current, as I understand it. The charger is 5V so five of them reduce it to 5-3.5=1.5 V. It is necessary to open up each servo and cut the 3 wires short, and solder new wires to the + and - terminals to surpass the circuitry. This of course was all a learning process but I'd be happy to share and I should post photos. Total cost each servo about $3 and with other parts I think it's under $5 each turnout for sure.
At this point I am planning to head to Tillamook to visit the historical society there in attempt to determine further the industries and specific business that were present in the 50's through the 60's along this part of the route. I believe this will help me further determine my rolling stock as well. However, I am hereby putting the word out that I'm in search of 40' flatcars and gondolas that may suit this branch and era, and I'd prefer to trade trees for them! No Tyco or Mantua please, but Athearn or Accurail would be OK, and Red Caboose would be a step up. I'd trade an 11" premium tree for a Red Caboose SP F-70-7 flat in good shape. Or would you consider a double-trunk tree for a steel SP gon with plywood extensions? Send me an email, coastmans@gmail.com!
03/19/2019: I am THRILLED to announce that we have new shop space for the tapering machine, Bob Barker Machine, and all the other dust-producing equipment and all of the raw materials. Everything on that end has been relocated a few blocks from here. The fledglings have left the nest! Also, this opens up my garage for conversion into premium model making space. As there is a project underway currently for the Cape Blanco Heritage Society, this is much needed space. Between making trees, working on the 4 foot by 4 foot upcoming model for CBHS, moving everything, and working as an RN "on the side", I haven't had much time to keep up on the website. In particular, I'd like to improve the photos of the Craftsman Trees, as in reality I think they look much better in person. Recently I've had plenty of help, both getting this website on a new, updated HTML platform, making trees, and other projects here. Special thanks to Hattie and Mary for helping me so much! More website improvements coming, I promise, and soon! -R
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This past weekend's productivity! It took three people to finish up this batch. :)
02/18/2019: The website has been updated and has a slightly new look. There may be a few dead spots. There's also a new Order Form which is fill-able if you have Microsoft Excel software. Otherwise you can download the PDF version. The easiest way to order is to do it right here online. Prices and shipping costs were reviewed and updated at the first of the year. -R
9/29/18: This has to do with making photography of trees easier. Photography of trees on white backgrounds requires lots of light. The scenic turf materials do not reflect well; they absorb. (This is why we only offer trees in packages of six or less; more than this number in any one location can start a light-sucking gravitational shift leading to a small black hole on the layout. This is where all the Kadee couplers go. Whoa.)
I originally learned about LED light panels here. But last month, based on a tip I read in the September 2018 Model Railroad Hobbyist by Charles Hepperle, I made my own LED photo light box. I made a few alterations from plan, using 1/2" PVC for the frame. and natural color LED's. I later made the LED panels adjustable by splicing in extra 12AWG wires. This new box is easy to set up and yields better photos than my former multi-light LED bulbs + several incandescents for tree photography. -R
I originally learned about LED light panels here. But last month, based on a tip I read in the September 2018 Model Railroad Hobbyist by Charles Hepperle, I made my own LED photo light box. I made a few alterations from plan, using 1/2" PVC for the frame. and natural color LED's. I later made the LED panels adjustable by splicing in extra 12AWG wires. This new box is easy to set up and yields better photos than my former multi-light LED bulbs + several incandescents for tree photography. -R
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8/9/18: Bernard Fabron will be showing Coastmans trees and other scenery items he specializes in at this railway exposition in France. Thanks Bernard! -R
8/9/18: Second Growth Trees Kits and Trunks are now in 6" and 8" heights. This is due to manufacturer change in dowel material, not by us! We have cedar trunks in 7", 9", 11", 13", and larger sizes too.
1/8/18: I've been making forest models that hang on the wall. Although not train related, this is perhaps some my best modelmaking. If you haven't seen CoastalModelworks.com yet, you might enjoy this. Click Here.
12/13/17 Lots happening recently with CoastalModelWorks and NatureShaper on Etsy. Click Here to see my best tree diorama to date!
9/3/17 Two new lots in inventory, working on improving accuracy of website photos, and fine turf now supplied with every kit.
Been a while since I wrote on the News page! Right now I'm working on getting the inventory levels up for fall/winter/spring. Fine Turfs "Green Blend" and "Earth" (both Woodland Scenics items) are supplied in 2x2 inch baggies in every kit. You get one of each with each kit. The purpose is to provide highlights to the trees once basic construction is complete. There just isn't room to add anything more to the kit without increasing the size of the bag. They are packed! Also, what I've noticed about the Thick Green Branches material, is that it can be "peeled" apart into two thin layers, at least along certain portions of it. This means at least part of a quarter sheet can be made into two thinner sheets, which permits having both thin and thick material on-hand for tree making. A good thing! Hiking always results in revived enthusiasm for tree making. See Home Page for a few photos taken on the latest trip.
Personal Layout: Port of Tillamook Bay (old SP line) coast railroad in HO scale, progress made, now applying ballast to track and creating mock cardboard stand-in structures for initial research. This is a 100% "Dead Rail" layout in HO, 9' x 17', depicting the old SP branch that traverses the Oregon Coastal mountain range from Banks (west of Portland) to Tillamook (ends at Navy Blimp Hangar base, now historic site). Runs along Pacific Ocean for several miles at Rockaway. I went to college for teaching near this area and spent my "unwinding" time walking the line and planning my HO debut! Here's a few pics of the layout so far:
Personal Layout: Port of Tillamook Bay (old SP line) coast railroad in HO scale, progress made, now applying ballast to track and creating mock cardboard stand-in structures for initial research. This is a 100% "Dead Rail" layout in HO, 9' x 17', depicting the old SP branch that traverses the Oregon Coastal mountain range from Banks (west of Portland) to Tillamook (ends at Navy Blimp Hangar base, now historic site). Runs along Pacific Ocean for several miles at Rockaway. I went to college for teaching near this area and spent my "unwinding" time walking the line and planning my HO debut! Here's a few pics of the layout so far:
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3/26/17 All New Batch of Dead Branches on hand.
I was sort of getting to "the end" of the supply of dead branches. So I made a "reconnaissance mission" run to the deserts of Eastern Oregon and stocked up on a whole new crop. After having made trees for nearly two years on the previous lot, I learned a few things. This time around they will have more Sage and somewhat less Saltbush. I'm very much enjoying the look of the new material and I can't wait to try it!!!
2/25/2017 The Latest in Tree Making techniques...back to white glue!
Roundabout! Return to white glue. I'm only using hot glue for the dead branches. Occasionally I might use hot glue to "come in sideways" with a green branch or two. However, I found that with thick white glue (undiluted) and a brush, I can move along faster with the same results. This is probably being facilitated by improvements in manufacturing. The foliage I'm producing now is tougher and denser than previous, a direct result of manufacture with glue of thicker consistency, a higher overall percentage of glue, applied at higher pressure, and with a higher percentage of coconut husk fiber (coir) in the mix. I like it better. I hope you will too.
An outline of the current basic tree making strategy is as follows:
1) Basic build up. Vat of white glue & a brush (not too stiff) & Green branch foliage at the ready. a) Add a blotch of white glue at the intended destination, probably at least 1/2 way down the trunk. b) Tear off a chuck, shape it a little bit, add a partition or two. c) Slide the foliage down the trunk into the glue.
2) allow to dry completely.
3) For a realistic look (fullness), it is necessary to add additional turf. A tacky adhesive is needed. Hair spray and / or adhesive sprays are the convenient and effective options for most modelers. However, in "the factory", I am now using a 70/30 mix white glue/water (30% dilution), through a discount airbrush, at 90 psi. This results in much better retention of added turf! Additionally, I no longer need an organic solvent respirator. I can add more turf and accomplish it in just ONE application, versus an equivalent of two or three applications of Elmer's adhesive spray. Once set up, this is fast, and necessary for making, well, essentially hundreds of trees.
4) Follow with addition of dead branches using the hot glue technique (see video #2 home page here).
Experimentation: with trimming of foliage, and with filling in and highlighting with "fine" grade turfs. I felt the trees a bit "ratty", unfinished in appearance, and I'm now approaching a partially refined appearance by adding in some fine turf over the coarse. However, as WS does not currently manufacture a "fine" grade of Conifer, I am currently experimenting with combinations of Green Blend and Weeds. See photos below.
Trimming of the loose ends is also very effective. I have not attempted much tree trimming, fearing the trees would become too refined. However after careful study of photos, it became apparent this could be helpful.
Wow! Only good coffee could write this. Also, stay tuned for "double trunk" trees, they are in-process right now, and hopefully soon I will post a few pictures and story of my Port of Tillamook Bay RR (old SP coast line), which is fully underway, 100% battery-operated (see S-CAB here if you haven't), and soaking up any fragments of free time I have lying about!
Truly, it's never been a better time to be a model railroader!
-R
An outline of the current basic tree making strategy is as follows:
1) Basic build up. Vat of white glue & a brush (not too stiff) & Green branch foliage at the ready. a) Add a blotch of white glue at the intended destination, probably at least 1/2 way down the trunk. b) Tear off a chuck, shape it a little bit, add a partition or two. c) Slide the foliage down the trunk into the glue.
2) allow to dry completely.
3) For a realistic look (fullness), it is necessary to add additional turf. A tacky adhesive is needed. Hair spray and / or adhesive sprays are the convenient and effective options for most modelers. However, in "the factory", I am now using a 70/30 mix white glue/water (30% dilution), through a discount airbrush, at 90 psi. This results in much better retention of added turf! Additionally, I no longer need an organic solvent respirator. I can add more turf and accomplish it in just ONE application, versus an equivalent of two or three applications of Elmer's adhesive spray. Once set up, this is fast, and necessary for making, well, essentially hundreds of trees.
4) Follow with addition of dead branches using the hot glue technique (see video #2 home page here).
Experimentation: with trimming of foliage, and with filling in and highlighting with "fine" grade turfs. I felt the trees a bit "ratty", unfinished in appearance, and I'm now approaching a partially refined appearance by adding in some fine turf over the coarse. However, as WS does not currently manufacture a "fine" grade of Conifer, I am currently experimenting with combinations of Green Blend and Weeds. See photos below.
Trimming of the loose ends is also very effective. I have not attempted much tree trimming, fearing the trees would become too refined. However after careful study of photos, it became apparent this could be helpful.
Wow! Only good coffee could write this. Also, stay tuned for "double trunk" trees, they are in-process right now, and hopefully soon I will post a few pictures and story of my Port of Tillamook Bay RR (old SP coast line), which is fully underway, 100% battery-operated (see S-CAB here if you haven't), and soaking up any fragments of free time I have lying about!
Truly, it's never been a better time to be a model railroader!
-R
Comparison of four 9" trees with different highlights created by adding fine turf over the already applied coarse turf. Photo taken on top of diesel truck with cell phone camera.
Upper Rogue River near Crater Lake, Oregon, 2/2017.
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9/25/16 Latest tree building technique ... big on Hot Glue...
Inspired by trees I saw on vacation and also because I could think straight again for a few moments, I started dabbling with hot glue again. This because I realize drilling holes in trunks to add dead branches is too hard. I have not found a water-based glue that is thick enough nor rapid setting enough to do what hot glue can. The drawbacks to hot glue are 1) potential for shiny surface / reflection and 2) stringy things everywhere.
However, hot glue is the fastest way to set a dead branch. The tree on the home page on the left was a 20 minute job, no joke! I feel I've got the two aforementioned problems under control. Here goes.
I am using a 7/16" hot glue gun with clear hot glue. I think either clear or a honey-color neutral will work.. I squeeze the trigger just enough to get a bead at the tip. I decide ahead where I'm going with the dead branch; where it will land on the tree. I dip the butt end of the branch in the hot glue. I stick it on the tree. Hold for 4.7 secconds. Ignore the stringy thing; we're gonna hit that with a heat gun later (hair dryer probably will work too). Move on to the next dead branch. Finish the tree.
Then..."PAINT" each dead branch around the connection with white glue using a small brush. Correction, TINY brush. This won't take as long as it sounds. Allow to dry. Low temp heater / warm air accelerates.
Then...identify the stringies from the hot glue. Ready heat gun...aim...fire. Stringies dissapear. White glue holding positions! Not too long now...no forest fires...he he.
Now, I started wondering if I could just skip using white glue altogether, and start using hot glue to glue the green branches in place. Turns out, this is the way to go. You really don't see the hot glue and all it takes is a small dab. No more waiting for white glue to dry, running down the trunk, etc. So, tree building steps are now as follows:
1) pin in base, construction stand.
2) Add green branches using a dab of hot glue for each section. Shape each piece and sever a little more so you're not just planting a disc on the tree. Use fingers & thumbs to impart a little curvature if possible. Lower it down the trunk, stop just a little above where you want it. Add the hot glue and then lower the green into it. Try giving a little twist to spread it around as it's drying. Trim exceptionally loose and wild ends with small scissors.
3) Add additional Conifer Green Turf. I am having good luck using Elmer's Spray Adhesive (white can). This is smelly, volatile stuff: work outdoors, or wear a respirator, or use in a large fume hood. It's not quite as bad as the 3M type and does not leave as much white residue as the 3M. It is more effective than hair spray.
I am using a french fry sieve to distribute the turf, not just shaking it out from the container. You can shake it from the container, it just slow. I wouldn't dump it on. Go ahead, rob the kitchen. I always do. It's in there, exactly what you need. Pain is only temporary, right? She's never done any permanent damage.
I'm adding the turf over a plastic container to capture the extra. I usually go two rounds with the Elmer's and the turf.
4) Add dead branches using the hot glue method above.
5) Kill the stringies with the heat gun.
6) Detail as desired. I like to add some Woodland Scenic Fine Turf Earth around the base. I use a small (correction TINY) brush to add the glue where I want the moss to be. I add the moss using a spoon from the main container and work over a plastic bin to catch the extra.
That's it. I am going to try the Elmer's Less Mess hot glue sticks. I'll let you know if that helps. This is all worthy of a video tutorial, but since that will take some time I just wanted to get this info out there so that you can maximize your tree making. Have fun!!!
However, hot glue is the fastest way to set a dead branch. The tree on the home page on the left was a 20 minute job, no joke! I feel I've got the two aforementioned problems under control. Here goes.
I am using a 7/16" hot glue gun with clear hot glue. I think either clear or a honey-color neutral will work.. I squeeze the trigger just enough to get a bead at the tip. I decide ahead where I'm going with the dead branch; where it will land on the tree. I dip the butt end of the branch in the hot glue. I stick it on the tree. Hold for 4.7 secconds. Ignore the stringy thing; we're gonna hit that with a heat gun later (hair dryer probably will work too). Move on to the next dead branch. Finish the tree.
Then..."PAINT" each dead branch around the connection with white glue using a small brush. Correction, TINY brush. This won't take as long as it sounds. Allow to dry. Low temp heater / warm air accelerates.
Then...identify the stringies from the hot glue. Ready heat gun...aim...fire. Stringies dissapear. White glue holding positions! Not too long now...no forest fires...he he.
Now, I started wondering if I could just skip using white glue altogether, and start using hot glue to glue the green branches in place. Turns out, this is the way to go. You really don't see the hot glue and all it takes is a small dab. No more waiting for white glue to dry, running down the trunk, etc. So, tree building steps are now as follows:
1) pin in base, construction stand.
2) Add green branches using a dab of hot glue for each section. Shape each piece and sever a little more so you're not just planting a disc on the tree. Use fingers & thumbs to impart a little curvature if possible. Lower it down the trunk, stop just a little above where you want it. Add the hot glue and then lower the green into it. Try giving a little twist to spread it around as it's drying. Trim exceptionally loose and wild ends with small scissors.
3) Add additional Conifer Green Turf. I am having good luck using Elmer's Spray Adhesive (white can). This is smelly, volatile stuff: work outdoors, or wear a respirator, or use in a large fume hood. It's not quite as bad as the 3M type and does not leave as much white residue as the 3M. It is more effective than hair spray.
I am using a french fry sieve to distribute the turf, not just shaking it out from the container. You can shake it from the container, it just slow. I wouldn't dump it on. Go ahead, rob the kitchen. I always do. It's in there, exactly what you need. Pain is only temporary, right? She's never done any permanent damage.
I'm adding the turf over a plastic container to capture the extra. I usually go two rounds with the Elmer's and the turf.
4) Add dead branches using the hot glue method above.
5) Kill the stringies with the heat gun.
6) Detail as desired. I like to add some Woodland Scenic Fine Turf Earth around the base. I use a small (correction TINY) brush to add the glue where I want the moss to be. I add the moss using a spoon from the main container and work over a plastic bin to catch the extra.
That's it. I am going to try the Elmer's Less Mess hot glue sticks. I'll let you know if that helps. This is all worthy of a video tutorial, but since that will take some time I just wanted to get this info out there so that you can maximize your tree making. Have fun!!!
Returned from the San Juan Islands 9/23 and Great Tree Pictures from Matia Is!
Sailing video. I should be wearing a hat! Here we are in transit from Patos Is. to Sucia Is. We spent two days on Patos weathering a storm and trying to keep our feet dry and warm!
Call me nuts, but I still love to go on a vacation where I get a chance to look at old growth trees. Matia Island in the San Juans (northern Washington State) proved to have just that. Prime examples of Douglas Fir and Western Red Cedar, side by side.
What I noticed is that the Cedars have branches that begin almost from the very bottom of the tree. They are generally thinner and wispier in appearance versus the Dougs. The Dougs often do not begin their branches until much upward from the base, probably 1/3 of the way up at least. This is not always the case, it is a generalization. Douglas branches can be thicker and heavier looking than the Cedars. Dougs have a deeper bark detail. Cedars are wider at the base where they enter the earth (flared).
What I noticed is that the Cedars have branches that begin almost from the very bottom of the tree. They are generally thinner and wispier in appearance versus the Dougs. The Dougs often do not begin their branches until much upward from the base, probably 1/3 of the way up at least. This is not always the case, it is a generalization. Douglas branches can be thicker and heavier looking than the Cedars. Dougs have a deeper bark detail. Cedars are wider at the base where they enter the earth (flared).
Cedars and Doug Firs Mixed
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Big Western Red Cedar
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Big Douglas Fir.
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Another really BIG Western Red Cedar.
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Click to ENLARGE the photos.
September 4th, 2016...Just keeping up with The News.
Editing the site just a bit today. I added a blurb about what I'm doing with regards to adding dead branches to trees, on the Tips page. I'm using hot glue again. I'm finding that drilling individual holes just isn't worth it. We used to drill a minimum of 40 holes per trunk with the four-drill machine, one at a time, which is fast, but handling hundreds of trunks, well, it's tough. And if we could just get a few holes in on the little six inch bamboo trunks, that was success. Can't do that anymore, so I started experimenting with hot glue again.
I first started using hot glue on trees to add Green Branches to individual wooden limbs (aka Dead Branches) on the thirteen inch tall trees. Recently I thought I should try this for adding the dead branches too. I've had success using a honey-colored hot glue. I have not tried brown yet. Tan or Grey might be good. It just takes a tiny bit of hot glue to do it. This is great for adding a lot of dead branches and you don't want to drill all those holes.
In other news, I'm in full swing on the Port of Tillamook battery-operated HO layout. Thanks to Neil Stanton at S-CAB, I'm up and running with my very own battery operated HO GP-9. This is a lithium-polymer battery with a decoder and a "BPS" battery power supply that converts the voltage. Dirty track? Not too scared to solder things? If you can to a little machining too, this may work for you. Check it out at www.s-cab.com. Someday I hope to convert this P2K shell over to the GP-9E "cow" scheme as seen on the POTB railroad (you can see it here).
I'm obsessed with airbrushing the perfect cloud for the background. Tillamook, near the ocean, often has fog, which later breaks up into clouds over the ocean. As this railroad has a stretch of track right along the beach, I thought it would be fitting to model this. I've devoted the last several months, not consistently mind you, to cloud research, airbrushing, and learning to paint these things. Yikes. Not easy. But fun! I'm getting a little better at it. Definitely makes me appreciate what those airbrush artists can do! Amazing.
That's it. No benchwork yet. Just clouds and a battery op P2K GP9. I'll get there. Winter is coming! Yahoo!
I first started using hot glue on trees to add Green Branches to individual wooden limbs (aka Dead Branches) on the thirteen inch tall trees. Recently I thought I should try this for adding the dead branches too. I've had success using a honey-colored hot glue. I have not tried brown yet. Tan or Grey might be good. It just takes a tiny bit of hot glue to do it. This is great for adding a lot of dead branches and you don't want to drill all those holes.
In other news, I'm in full swing on the Port of Tillamook battery-operated HO layout. Thanks to Neil Stanton at S-CAB, I'm up and running with my very own battery operated HO GP-9. This is a lithium-polymer battery with a decoder and a "BPS" battery power supply that converts the voltage. Dirty track? Not too scared to solder things? If you can to a little machining too, this may work for you. Check it out at www.s-cab.com. Someday I hope to convert this P2K shell over to the GP-9E "cow" scheme as seen on the POTB railroad (you can see it here).
I'm obsessed with airbrushing the perfect cloud for the background. Tillamook, near the ocean, often has fog, which later breaks up into clouds over the ocean. As this railroad has a stretch of track right along the beach, I thought it would be fitting to model this. I've devoted the last several months, not consistently mind you, to cloud research, airbrushing, and learning to paint these things. Yikes. Not easy. But fun! I'm getting a little better at it. Definitely makes me appreciate what those airbrush artists can do! Amazing.
That's it. No benchwork yet. Just clouds and a battery op P2K GP9. I'll get there. Winter is coming! Yahoo!
August 29th, 2016...New Green Branches Now Available.
All New Green Branches Foliage Material is here to stay. It's taken a while to get this going but I think now things have stabilized just a bit. I'm now seeing consistency in production. It is fairly stiff, much more than previous trials, which holds the trunk better. It is light, airy, and has plenty of "undergrowth". This material has Woodland Scenics Conifer Green Coarse Turf (TM) built right into it. The trick is to make the tree and then sprinkle on a bit more turf. This is a step not needed in previous construction with the former nylon-pad based material. However, I think the end results are worth this extra step. One advantage is the end user can make the trees fuller or less full of the foliage by choosing how much extra turf to add. I suspect there will probably be more developments with the way trees are made in the near future. I am making them myself and many customers are providing much valued constructive feedback. I am open to any constructive feedback so please do not hesitate to share your thoughts by sending an email! coastmans@gmail.com. All New Green Branches are available in 1/4 sheets and full sheets. A full sheet can make 16 or more trees!
I've added a couple entries to the Gallery page. Don't miss George Gibson's Moose Creek Tree in a Coastman's cedar trunk! And Ted Davis, Gene Austin and Jose Vergili all sent in great shots of Coastmans products in-action on their layouts. Check it out, it's on the Gallery page.
This summer's efforts resulted in two more new products, Hollow Logs and Utility Poles. If you like developing scenes within natural scenery settings, you can't beat Hollow Logs for that. Perfect for hiding small animals! Utility Poles are for the modeler looking to create a unique load on a modern flat car. Each is checked with a micrometer for accuracy. There may be some larger versions of Utility Poles yet to come.
I've added a couple entries to the Gallery page. Don't miss George Gibson's Moose Creek Tree in a Coastman's cedar trunk! And Ted Davis, Gene Austin and Jose Vergili all sent in great shots of Coastmans products in-action on their layouts. Check it out, it's on the Gallery page.
This summer's efforts resulted in two more new products, Hollow Logs and Utility Poles. If you like developing scenes within natural scenery settings, you can't beat Hollow Logs for that. Perfect for hiding small animals! Utility Poles are for the modeler looking to create a unique load on a modern flat car. Each is checked with a micrometer for accuracy. There may be some larger versions of Utility Poles yet to come.
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And thanks for reading the news!
June 8th, 2016...New Green Branches is coming along now.
Admittedly I've been a bit slow on this, but after much "research", I think I've figured out how to glue everything together. Now I just need to further secure the sources of materials. More to come soon!
March 6th, 2016...Wait...Where are the Scrubber Pads?
9" Old Growth tree made from coir and groundfoam for green branches!
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Comparison: 9" OG with coir/groundfoam mix vs. traditional coastmans tree using scrubbers tassled/torn and paint soaked / centrifuged material
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Wow, is this really happening??? A new kind of green branches? Nothing ready for production quite yet, but these photos show what is possible using our tapered trunks. This "new material" is not really "new" per se. It's a mix of ground foam and coir that has been used many times before to make trees. However, if it works out, this will be easier to use and ... drum roll please, dare I say...more realistic(??)....than our current material. For now, you might be able to make your own. This is coir (coconut husk), bought online (1/2 lb bag), cut into short sections, then dyed gray. I used adhesive spray to attach the ground foam. I won't get too into it here, but I made the combo material first, on a cookie sheet. Then I applied it similar to conventional Green Branches material. How I made it is the tricky part, but it's similar to the way trees are made using furnace filter. I also stained this trunk with an alcohol based silver-grey wood stain used for cabinetry. Summary: tricker to make than the conventional pad material, but slides on easier. I really like the results. Stay tuned to see what happens!
January 8th, 2016
More New Products!
New products are out, including logs for HO/S/O scales, Moose Creek Trees, and Bird's Nests. Click on each highlighted text to go to that page. More of the trees of the maximum detail variety, coming soon. New instructional videos are now posted on the Instructions page. Be sure to turn down the volume ahead of time; the Miles Davis quartet music is too loud. :0 I also added to the Tips and Pics page - how to cut a log, logger-style, and how to add a rooty base to any tree using water-based wood putty. Whew!
November 18, 2015
Dead Branches now available as stand-alone product
We are happy to announce that we now have our Dead Branches available as a separate product all on its own. Fortunately I was able to locate a source of desert material that should be around for a while. These are quality dead branches. You can see them up close on our Detailing page.
Large Scale Logs featured in Sn3 Modeler Fall/Winter 2015 Issue September 29, 2015
Our first published article! Thanks to Don and Susan Heimburger for putting this together. I hope to get a scanned copy up here on the site soon. The printed article talks includes much of the same information featured in the Log Research page we have (click colored text to go to that). Thanks Don!
August 28, 2015
Wow, haven't contributed to the News page for a long time! At the present time I am focused on fine-tuning the production line for 18-24 inch tree trunks. Over the past few years there have been many inquiries on these and I have always planned to have them. Two years ago I purchased a lathe and a router and now together they are finally in-sync. Fine tuning involves selecting the right router bit, feed rate, and lathe speed.
As the tapered trunks are fashioned on a lathe, they come out quite straight. To remedy this I constructed a steam box apparatus. After 45 minutes, steamed trunks exit the box and are placed in special bending jig in a vice. Clamping down on the jig imparts the bend to the base of the trunk.
I am also in the process of deciding how to impart the bark detail. Currently there are two methods; the first follows the same as for other (smaller) trunks whereby material is subtracted from the trunk using wire wheels. The second method is one I've been formulating similar to how the bark is created on our logs. This involves latex paint and grout.
I expect to have the trunks available by the end of September. Initial orders will be via email correspondence. The addition of these products to our Trunks page and online availability should happen by the end of November.
As the tapered trunks are fashioned on a lathe, they come out quite straight. To remedy this I constructed a steam box apparatus. After 45 minutes, steamed trunks exit the box and are placed in special bending jig in a vice. Clamping down on the jig imparts the bend to the base of the trunk.
I am also in the process of deciding how to impart the bark detail. Currently there are two methods; the first follows the same as for other (smaller) trunks whereby material is subtracted from the trunk using wire wheels. The second method is one I've been formulating similar to how the bark is created on our logs. This involves latex paint and grout.
I expect to have the trunks available by the end of September. Initial orders will be via email correspondence. The addition of these products to our Trunks page and online availability should happen by the end of November.
Initial 16-24" trunks from Port Orford Cedar and also material from the beach.
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Steambox setup for steam bending 16"-24" cedar trunks.
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February 7, 2015
It has been very busy around here lately, with many orders, and now we are carrying our first rolling stock item, the Rivarossi Skeleton Log Car. A diorama is in progress (below), shows are coming up fast, and it seems like trees are going every which way. I wrote a mini-review on the log car; read it here. OK back to making trees!
January 15, 2015
A little modelbuilding going on here. I wanted a mountain I could use to host trees. Possibly this could have a real live model train on it too. Tunnel. Bridge? I don't have room to store models this size, so I wanted something I could recycle or use in the stove to produce a little heat. Therefore I'm experimenting with cardboard and paper mache. All for the purpose of advertising...brochure photos, ads, etc. Hey, this is the funnest part! Maybe I could give this away?
Cardboard scraps glued together for the sides and base. After I finished this I realized I could have just used a large cardboard box.
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cardboard weave...using hot glue.
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December 13, 2014
December 12, 2014
Oh joy! Finally moving into our new packaging center. Of course it took way longer than expected to finish this...about a 6 month total time from start to finish. But now I finally have a bona fide brand new inventory, packaging, and marketing location for Coastmans. It's only a 18' by 9' building, but a crucial structure to continue the business. I thought this would be a great time to put some kits up on sale...so check out the 25% off through the 25th sale on kits and trunks. Also, Green Branches packages are just $8 during this time.
October 22, 2014
Signed up for the Sn3 Symposium for April 16-18, 2015 in Bellevue, Washington, so I hope to see folks there. Once again, working on the packaging center for many days last week and now the drywall is nearly finished. I am hopeful to be moving the computer and all shipping supplies & goods in there next week!
With permission, I am hosting images from KMP models of their marvelous steam donkeys, yarders, spar tree, and sawmill outbuildings, all of which are available as kits on their website (click here). Richard King does a fantastic job producing these kits and I can't wait to put my steam donkey together. KMP models go hand-in-hand with our timber-style trunks, so I just had to get 'em on here. Thanks Richard!
October 17, 2014
Finished the outside of the new packaging area. It has a nice cedar shingle siding on it with cedar trim. The insulation is up in the inside. Drywall is next. As soon as this area is done I can move all the packaging materials from inside the house into this new area. Then Hattie can enjoy playing piano while I package Coastmans trees.
Though I have a large packaging area, I still don't have a model-making area. I had a few thoughts of squeezing something into the packaging area but I just don't think it's gonna fit. Model making does take a bit of space. I will figure something out. I might have to take over the abandoned house across the street. Maybe no one will notice!
Though I have a large packaging area, I still don't have a model-making area. I had a few thoughts of squeezing something into the packaging area but I just don't think it's gonna fit. Model making does take a bit of space. I will figure something out. I might have to take over the abandoned house across the street. Maybe no one will notice!
October 6, 2014
Summer's Over
Well, that didn't take long. My wife and I built a new packaging center to house all the Coastmans products. All we have left to do is the cedar siding and the interior. It was really quite a job. In our attempt to expand and occupy as much of our small property as possible, the area behind the garage where the trunks are made seemed like the perfect location for packaging and warehousing all manufactured goods. However, we dug this into a hillside, dug and put in French drainage, and while I was at it I dug irrigation lines for the garden. Then, seemed like a good idea to dig the French drainline further toward the road. I slowed down on the digging when the patellar tendonitis set in strong enough to keep me from windsurfing. But we whopped the deer fence to get the concrete truck in there, poured the foundation & the stem wall, then up the walls go, framing that is. It all looks like things are really happening and you're gonna finish in a week, until you slug down to about one mph when integrating this thing with the existing building comes into play...ayye! Hey, it's done now for the most part. Soon I'll be back to manufacturing, and hopefully just in time for the start of the season and the orders.
June 30, 2014
Busy Summer
Whoa! In the last month or two we've had many wonderful orders to fill, I've broken ground on a new packaging building, and somehow I've managed to become married! How the heck? Well, what's great is that my wonderful new wife Hattie supports me enormously in all my tree making endeavors. In fact, if I'm out playing instead of working (essentially surfing or windsurf-sailing instead of making trees) I could potentially get rounded up for that! OK so I'm in heaven.
Unfortunately, I haven't had as much time as I've wanted to work on the website and keep things fresh. Orders have been going out almost daily now, so I'm staying on top of that and keeping the inventory up. After the packaging center, I plan to build a new model studio and I'll be able to shoot photos again for the site as well as new products. New products! Soon to come out on the site are StumpStuff and Windfall. StumpStuff is a unique ground cover that includes remnants from our FunkyTrunks as well as other bits of interesting debris floating around here. Windfall essentially consists of trees that didn't quite make it to our main products, but would be great for modelling fallen trees or for using in the background. Somehow I hope to get some pictures up of these new products for you to see and to be able to order them online.
Unfortunately, I haven't had as much time as I've wanted to work on the website and keep things fresh. Orders have been going out almost daily now, so I'm staying on top of that and keeping the inventory up. After the packaging center, I plan to build a new model studio and I'll be able to shoot photos again for the site as well as new products. New products! Soon to come out on the site are StumpStuff and Windfall. StumpStuff is a unique ground cover that includes remnants from our FunkyTrunks as well as other bits of interesting debris floating around here. Windfall essentially consists of trees that didn't quite make it to our main products, but would be great for modelling fallen trees or for using in the background. Somehow I hope to get some pictures up of these new products for you to see and to be able to order them online.
April 14th, 2014
Roseburg Mini-Meet a success
This weekend I met Richard Pitter, our PNR 1st Division Superintendent at the Douglas County Library in Roseburg, Oregon. I was thrilled to be able to deliver both my (now standardized) PowerPoint presentation about the machines I've made as well as make a tree on video for the audience. Thanks PNR 1st Div gang for your help! - Rog
Trees from kits...made in USA...built up in France
Joris continues to amaze with the quality of the trees he makes in France. See our Gallery.
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Murielle Charbonnier of Normandy, France, aka Joris.
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My good friend Joris in Normandy, France continues to improve on his tree-making skills. He promises me a lesson in tree kit building with free round-trip airfare to Paris included (yeah right!!) Looks like he made these from our "second growth" bamboo trunks, and added a bit of WS ground foam (which by the way nearly matches our Green Branches). If I didn't know better I'd say they were our larger-size trees, as they have that level of detail. Way to go Joris! Click on each for larger image.
April 7, 2014:
Crazy New Machine Helps Makes Green Branches
How to make forest scenery base
The new machine that makes the Green Branches (I don't know what to call this thing, some call it the "interrigator", I call it "the monster") is up and running. I put it together in two months. This is one of those extremely lucky breaks that some people never get; I turn the thing on and it works perfectly the first time. That's nuts. It's a 150# cylinder of concrete with 600+ nails sticking out of it going round and round. This intersects with another 50# concrete drum that also has many nails sticking out of it. All in all, it churns up nylon pads like butter. Ya don't mess with this thing. It has a 1/4" plywood safety cover and it's on there for a reason! Sure works nice though. Quiet too.
Now these are the best Green Branches we have ever had - in fact we couldn't make them this nice by hand (and they have ALL been made by hand up to this point). This is because the quality of the relief on the surfaces is much improved, as fingers do not contact before drying. Also, the process imparts some very interesting shapes, moreso than what one can accomplish by hand.
All packages leaving Port Orford at this point have the NEW Green Branches material inside. The coloring is the same. Have fun!
Also, a friend asked me about how I do the surfaces on my models (dioramas, etc) so I put together a few paragraphs of instruction. I don't think this is anything new but if you are interested then click here for a document download. This does not include the rocks. More on that to come!
Now these are the best Green Branches we have ever had - in fact we couldn't make them this nice by hand (and they have ALL been made by hand up to this point). This is because the quality of the relief on the surfaces is much improved, as fingers do not contact before drying. Also, the process imparts some very interesting shapes, moreso than what one can accomplish by hand.
All packages leaving Port Orford at this point have the NEW Green Branches material inside. The coloring is the same. Have fun!
Also, a friend asked me about how I do the surfaces on my models (dioramas, etc) so I put together a few paragraphs of instruction. I don't think this is anything new but if you are interested then click here for a document download. This does not include the rocks. More on that to come!
March 5, 2014:
Pacific Model Loggers Conference Wrap-Up
Elsie, Oregon (Camp 18) Saturday, March 1st 2014: My first time teaching to an audience about how to put a tree kit together. Thank you ladies & gentlemen for putting together a fine event. I thought things went very well for me and the pleasure was truly all mine. See you next year!
New website as of 1/23/14. I believe most of it works. Please let me know if it doesn't. coastmans@gmail.com. Thanks, Rog
New Ad to come out in February MRH online magazine
Looking forward to seeing our new 1/4 page ad come out in Model Railroad Hobbyist. This is a clickable ad that will bring folks to our "landing page" and they can check out the site from there. Thanks Daniel at MRH! See the ad in our gallery.- Rog