Miscellaneous "How-To's"
As I keep learning things along the way, from time to time I post my "findings" here. Perhaps some of this information could be useful to someone? Good luck and...be careful! :)
DIY: Detailed Logs
The author created these logs using CSP Logs and other materials, as follows below.
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Add more detail to your log models!
DOWNLOAD the how-to file: |
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This is the download (unreadable here, me thinks)
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Here's the ingredients:
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Then check out the logging action on the HO scale OCR Layout, click here
Some examples of real logs as seen out & about southwestern Oregon state:
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Here's where the lonely tracks go!
RUSTY VEHICLES AND METAL DEBRIS
Create different effects by applying successive layers of thin water-based washes to many castings at one time. Consider these approaches in any combination:
1) Create a super-saturated rusty solution with 1/2 cup vinegar & 1/4 pad of steel wool. Place ingredients in a jar. Allow to sit for one week. Then mix and expose to air allow to become very rusty. Neutralize with baking soda before use.
Car-body castings treatment: Place many small pieces of metal debris in aluminum pan say 5x8”. Bake at 275 for several hours until all liquid is gone.
2) Mix a strong Rit dye solution in a steel pan (no aluminum) of 1 tbsp sunset orange and 1 tsp cocoa brown. Place pieces in dye and boil 15’. Remove from dye and let dry (I used filter screen).
3) Consider dirt dunk weathering or maybe just brush some dried dirt onto autobody sides
4) finish with micro-quantities of mineral spirits and oil colors or AK products
Create different effects by applying successive layers of thin water-based washes to many castings at one time. Consider these approaches in any combination:
1) Create a super-saturated rusty solution with 1/2 cup vinegar & 1/4 pad of steel wool. Place ingredients in a jar. Allow to sit for one week. Then mix and expose to air allow to become very rusty. Neutralize with baking soda before use.
Car-body castings treatment: Place many small pieces of metal debris in aluminum pan say 5x8”. Bake at 275 for several hours until all liquid is gone.
2) Mix a strong Rit dye solution in a steel pan (no aluminum) of 1 tbsp sunset orange and 1 tsp cocoa brown. Place pieces in dye and boil 15’. Remove from dye and let dry (I used filter screen).
3) Consider dirt dunk weathering or maybe just brush some dried dirt onto autobody sides
4) finish with micro-quantities of mineral spirits and oil colors or AK products
GOOD MUD
½ tsp burnt umber tint
1 tbsp white glue
Tiny bit black tint to soften / dull burnt umber color
Add: Filtered Sifted Baked Dirt until almost unspreadable consistency
Spread out on test area first
Move to layout when confidence at good level.
Add tracks ie cars trucks tractors
Add mud puddles and water in tracks (tried gloss medium, contracts too much, will try Envtx Lite)
½ tsp burnt umber tint
1 tbsp white glue
Tiny bit black tint to soften / dull burnt umber color
Add: Filtered Sifted Baked Dirt until almost unspreadable consistency
Spread out on test area first
Move to layout when confidence at good level.
Add tracks ie cars trucks tractors
Add mud puddles and water in tracks (tried gloss medium, contracts too much, will try Envtx Lite)
DIY FILTERED SIFTED BAKED DIRT
You need:
Filter the dirt. I gather up about a gallon.
Lay dirt out on baking trays about an inch thick
Bake at 350F for 2-3 hours. This will knock the bacterial content down pretty good. Will probably still harbor fungal spores, but I have not observed any “growths” to date on any of my projects.
Let cool. Distribute to your storage container.
You need:
- a dedicated oven. Don’t use the nice oven for this.
- dedicated medium / large aluminum baking trays. Turkey recyclable trays just fine.
- Something to store the dirt in, prefer with a large mouth opening. I think I fixed up a laundry soap container.
- At least one filtering screen with mesh size equal to mosquito screen. Galvanized mesh better than nylon mesh, is tougher.
- containers, scoops, try garden tools etc.
- dry dirt. I have a covered area behind my house where we keep firewood. There’s some really dry dirt there. This is my chosen spot!
- wear at least a P95 dustmask. I use a P100 MSA brand. This is dirty work. I’ve only had to do it once in 5 years.
Filter the dirt. I gather up about a gallon.
Lay dirt out on baking trays about an inch thick
Bake at 350F for 2-3 hours. This will knock the bacterial content down pretty good. Will probably still harbor fungal spores, but I have not observed any “growths” to date on any of my projects.
Let cool. Distribute to your storage container.
SOLDER A CHAIN-LINK BARBWIRE FENCE
For my "classic wrecking yard" scene, which every layout has, I wanted a convincing fence. I started this right before Woodland came out with their version, which looks pretty nice. But we've been soldering here and I wanted to put my new skills to use! This calls for some really thin wire, without an enamel coating. That was a little hard to find, but I ended up ordering from China a small roll of ~40 gauge copper. I've put the rest of my info in the captions. I love this machine! -R
OLD TIMER'S HOT GLUE
Here's one I've begun to use recently, and I'm enjoying much success with this, so I wanted to share it. The matter of adding dead branches to the tree trunks has always been tenuous (and still is!). But this is yet another improvement to the process that is making it easier. It is still very detailed work, but no greater so than adding those grab bars to your rolling stock, or loading in a new coupler.
I don't have any photos or video of this just yet, but check back as I'd like to really show this one off! -R
I don't have any photos or video of this just yet, but check back as I'd like to really show this one off! -R
This is a new way of adding dead branches. For Coastmans, this is "new technology", but in truth this has been around for thousands of years. The people whom are truly native to this land used this technology to fasten arrowheads onto arrowshafts, as I understand it. It was used in medieval times as well for many purposes.
I wanted something less fumy than hot glue. This fits. It melts about half the temperature required for hot glue sticks.
I am using a hot plate, which is a bit overkill. However I believe one of these little hot glue heater dishes would work just as well, and use less space.
VENTILATION. Need I say more?
Don't get burnt. Wear gloves! I like my ove-gloves which are like oven mitts with fingers.
Then...get some tree pitch! I like these Shore Pines around here. About 3-4 tablespoons will do nicely. Do NOT measure it :(
I place mine in a small aluminum dish. A soup can works too. Perhaps a tuna can would be perfect.
Heat it up in the dish! Sometimes I use a heat gun, that helps.
Don't use a blow torch. I tested that. :(
If you can filter the melted goo with a mesh filter, that helps neaten the mess.
Add:
A tiny bit of paraffin wax or beeswax - this helps to add some flex back to the material once it is cooked down.
Add about 35% charcoal ground and sifted to a fine powder. I believe this may add some strength.
Artist's oil paints - I use titanium white and burnt umber.
Add the wax. Tint with the oils to match the trunks. Mix with a coffee stirrer, and don't get burnt. Wear gloves!
Let this cook for a while. The idea is to burn off the water and turpentine. If & when this cools, it should be rock hard and smooth, not sticky.
On my hot plate I have the temp set to "low".
When ready to try it, just dip the end of the dead branch you want to add into the "hot glue".
Rub some into the side of the trunk to get it seated well.
Add your dead branch.
You will need to work quickly. This stuff dries faster and harder than hot glue.
I like that it dries fast because I can make a snag tree etc. in short order. I don't even have to blow on the trunk to get it to cool.
I always coat the "joints" where the dead branch meets the trunk with matte medium or white glue.
Sometimes I do this even before the pitch mix dries, as the matte medium will essentially cool the joint for you. I use a small paint brush.
Matte medium is a little better as it does not leave as much of a waxy appearance as the white glue.
:)
I wanted something less fumy than hot glue. This fits. It melts about half the temperature required for hot glue sticks.
I am using a hot plate, which is a bit overkill. However I believe one of these little hot glue heater dishes would work just as well, and use less space.
VENTILATION. Need I say more?
Don't get burnt. Wear gloves! I like my ove-gloves which are like oven mitts with fingers.
Then...get some tree pitch! I like these Shore Pines around here. About 3-4 tablespoons will do nicely. Do NOT measure it :(
I place mine in a small aluminum dish. A soup can works too. Perhaps a tuna can would be perfect.
Heat it up in the dish! Sometimes I use a heat gun, that helps.
Don't use a blow torch. I tested that. :(
If you can filter the melted goo with a mesh filter, that helps neaten the mess.
Add:
A tiny bit of paraffin wax or beeswax - this helps to add some flex back to the material once it is cooked down.
Add about 35% charcoal ground and sifted to a fine powder. I believe this may add some strength.
Artist's oil paints - I use titanium white and burnt umber.
Add the wax. Tint with the oils to match the trunks. Mix with a coffee stirrer, and don't get burnt. Wear gloves!
Let this cook for a while. The idea is to burn off the water and turpentine. If & when this cools, it should be rock hard and smooth, not sticky.
On my hot plate I have the temp set to "low".
When ready to try it, just dip the end of the dead branch you want to add into the "hot glue".
Rub some into the side of the trunk to get it seated well.
Add your dead branch.
You will need to work quickly. This stuff dries faster and harder than hot glue.
I like that it dries fast because I can make a snag tree etc. in short order. I don't even have to blow on the trunk to get it to cool.
I always coat the "joints" where the dead branch meets the trunk with matte medium or white glue.
Sometimes I do this even before the pitch mix dries, as the matte medium will essentially cool the joint for you. I use a small paint brush.
Matte medium is a little better as it does not leave as much of a waxy appearance as the white glue.
:)
Here's a link to the video on this website where I'm using Hot Glue (scroll to bottom on that page). The technique for applying dead branches is pretty much the same. Have fun and be safe. -R
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Diorama Construction Video
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WEATHERING HO TRACK
Atlas Code 83 Pre and Post Weathering
Basic Ingredients: Krylon Camouflage Khaki, Camouflage Brown or Black, Artist's Oil Burnt Umber, Mineral Spirits, and something rusty like PollyScale Rust.
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Close Up Atlas Code 83. The Khaki color is more easily seen in the image below. -R
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My small layout permits me to fuss around with detailing things. Such is the case with weathering track. Now on the final stretch of this SP coastal branch, Port of Tillamook Bay Railroad, I’ve improved at the process. This is a combination of what I read from blogs, particularly I must give credit to mentioning Matthieu Lachance’s reference to Lance Mindheim’s technique as discussed on the Hedley Junction Blog, June 24, 2014. On this blog, Matthieu discussed how he weathered Peco Code 83 rail and also mentioned working with Micro Engineering and Atlas Code 83. I have worked with ME and Atlas and am ready to report on my findings.
First of all, I should say that although I prefer the appearance of the ME track, the Atlas track does, as Matthieu mentions, “a better job” of retaining the paint. I just finished pulling the tape on two 3’ sections of Atlas Flex, and lost zero amount of paint. Consider however that I allowed the initial coats of spray paint to dry for 1.5 weeks, not to mention that I did so in a foam EPS insulated chamber kept at a nice cozy 80 degrees F (I happen to have for making trees and Green Branches). I don’t think I can say I did this back when I was working with the ME track several months ago. However, I do believe the ME track may be “more slippery”. I gather from the Hedley blog this is Matthieu’s impression too; the Atlas is brittle, with more "tooth".
First of all, I should say that although I prefer the appearance of the ME track, the Atlas track does, as Matthieu mentions, “a better job” of retaining the paint. I just finished pulling the tape on two 3’ sections of Atlas Flex, and lost zero amount of paint. Consider however that I allowed the initial coats of spray paint to dry for 1.5 weeks, not to mention that I did so in a foam EPS insulated chamber kept at a nice cozy 80 degrees F (I happen to have for making trees and Green Branches). I don’t think I can say I did this back when I was working with the ME track several months ago. However, I do believe the ME track may be “more slippery”. I gather from the Hedley blog this is Matthieu’s impression too; the Atlas is brittle, with more "tooth".
ME code 83 on left, Atlas on right. Note the ME has patchy spots where the tape removal took some paint with it. That might be interpreted as creosote but it wasn't intentional.
The process includes application of at least three colors. An important point, right off the bat, I feel, is that what colors are chosen are not crucial. It is more the application of the different tones and the order. No need to get obsessed with finding the exact right color, rather just focus on consistency. Also the taping off of the tie plates and rails is important.I actually used two different colors on two separate weathering applications for the final finish of the tie plates & rails on my layout, and side by side I can’t hardly tell the difference.
Enough chatter. The basic process I have used is as follows:
1) The track is not yet on the layout (laid). I laid my track and took it up afterwards for the weathering so I could work outdoors. Do this outside, by the way; don’t dose yourself with xylene.
2) Base color spray of either Krylon Camouflage Black 4290 or Brown 4292. I used brown the first go round of this method, and Black the second time. Can’t tell the difference in the end. Let dry, an hour in the sun will do.
3) Apply Krylon Khaki 4291 over the 4290/4292. Mattheiu uses Beige. I couldn't find Beige. This is the step where you let it dry for at least a week. Especially on ME track, this must be BONE dry in order to prevent taking up the paint when the masking is removed in a later step.
4) This is the application of Burnt Umber Artist’s Oil Paint. For two pieces of flex, use about as much Burnt Umber as you’d use if you were gonna brush your teeth with it (?!). Mix this in approximately two tablespoons of mineral spirits, perhaps a bit more. Again, you are working outside, preferably on a sunny day. Mix this well. The oil paint at first appears to dissolve readily but later I bet you find some “chunks” that didn’t really blend in with the mineral spirits. This really needs to be dilute. Too strong on the Burnt Umber and you’ll basically bring the track color back; a dull brown. Here you are adding some contrast to the Khaki color. I apply this with a dabbing / stippling motion and leave some areas untouched to let the Khaki color through. Let this dry well, again preferably several days in a warm, dry environment. I didn’t say this would be convenient!
4) The taping: This part is not my favorite. It is necessary for the coloring specifically of the rails and the tie plates, to mask off all other areas of the track, which is the center of the ties and also the outer ends of the ties. I had best luck with that blue plastic painter’s tape that is quite expensive and sticks to itself readily which increases the challenge. I also did OK with regular blue painter’s masking tape on the previous go. That was with the ME track and I did pull up some of the paint, but as Matthieu mentions, if this is not too excessive it can add to the realism. I think perhaps I came back and did some touch up work on ties that had had too much paint removed (in my judgment of course). I cut the tape in 16” long sections on a large paper cutter. I am blessed with the paper cutter, however if I was sans paper cutter I would use a long straight edge and a box knife. It’s a good thing if the tape loses some of its’ adhesive power; this will help prevent the uptake of precious color you worked hard to get on there in steps 1, 2, & 3. On Atlas track, I cut the middle tape just wide enough that it bumps up against those O-scale spike heads. Err on the side of narrow; you can always add an adjacent strip. I find this tedious. It’s a really great feeling to remove it all in seconds to reveal good looking track!
5) Final color app: Here I’ve used PollyScale Rust. However, Mattheiu mentioned using Krylon Camo Brown, and I like the appearance of that also. It is much darker than our bright rusty coastal rail here in Oregon, however I find I can add chalks to gain that bright rusty look after I’ve laid the track. This is a good area to experiment with. Unfortunately the Krylon Camouflage color suite doesn’t include a good “rail rust” color. I’ve tried the Sand 4295 but that doesn’t have the look I want. I will say the PollyScale Rust seems to almost “soak in” and it’s not quite bright enough in my opinion. In the photos here, this was made with the PollyScale Rust color. I spray applied this with my inexpensive Harbor Freight airbrush. I diluted my PS Rust color with about 10% airbrush extender and 10% distilled water to help it flow better. I use about 40psi. Airbrushing acrylics is subject matter for another article. I let this dry overnight in my 80 degree drying box, but I think any dry environment at room temperature will suffice.
6) Tape removal! The best part. I do hope you find the paint stays put. You may experiment with different tape removal methods (speed & directions) to keep the paint intact (especially on ME track). Slowly worked best for me. You can touch it up.
I mentioned a few of the Krylon Camoflauge colors. Although I haven’t tried them yet, I think there are other flat colors out there that will work, and I’m hunting around for the magic rust color. If you know of one you like, send me a name or a link please! Also, feel free to let me know how this track weathering method worked out for you. Overall I am quite pleased with the results.
-Rog
Enough chatter. The basic process I have used is as follows:
1) The track is not yet on the layout (laid). I laid my track and took it up afterwards for the weathering so I could work outdoors. Do this outside, by the way; don’t dose yourself with xylene.
2) Base color spray of either Krylon Camouflage Black 4290 or Brown 4292. I used brown the first go round of this method, and Black the second time. Can’t tell the difference in the end. Let dry, an hour in the sun will do.
3) Apply Krylon Khaki 4291 over the 4290/4292. Mattheiu uses Beige. I couldn't find Beige. This is the step where you let it dry for at least a week. Especially on ME track, this must be BONE dry in order to prevent taking up the paint when the masking is removed in a later step.
4) This is the application of Burnt Umber Artist’s Oil Paint. For two pieces of flex, use about as much Burnt Umber as you’d use if you were gonna brush your teeth with it (?!). Mix this in approximately two tablespoons of mineral spirits, perhaps a bit more. Again, you are working outside, preferably on a sunny day. Mix this well. The oil paint at first appears to dissolve readily but later I bet you find some “chunks” that didn’t really blend in with the mineral spirits. This really needs to be dilute. Too strong on the Burnt Umber and you’ll basically bring the track color back; a dull brown. Here you are adding some contrast to the Khaki color. I apply this with a dabbing / stippling motion and leave some areas untouched to let the Khaki color through. Let this dry well, again preferably several days in a warm, dry environment. I didn’t say this would be convenient!
4) The taping: This part is not my favorite. It is necessary for the coloring specifically of the rails and the tie plates, to mask off all other areas of the track, which is the center of the ties and also the outer ends of the ties. I had best luck with that blue plastic painter’s tape that is quite expensive and sticks to itself readily which increases the challenge. I also did OK with regular blue painter’s masking tape on the previous go. That was with the ME track and I did pull up some of the paint, but as Matthieu mentions, if this is not too excessive it can add to the realism. I think perhaps I came back and did some touch up work on ties that had had too much paint removed (in my judgment of course). I cut the tape in 16” long sections on a large paper cutter. I am blessed with the paper cutter, however if I was sans paper cutter I would use a long straight edge and a box knife. It’s a good thing if the tape loses some of its’ adhesive power; this will help prevent the uptake of precious color you worked hard to get on there in steps 1, 2, & 3. On Atlas track, I cut the middle tape just wide enough that it bumps up against those O-scale spike heads. Err on the side of narrow; you can always add an adjacent strip. I find this tedious. It’s a really great feeling to remove it all in seconds to reveal good looking track!
5) Final color app: Here I’ve used PollyScale Rust. However, Mattheiu mentioned using Krylon Camo Brown, and I like the appearance of that also. It is much darker than our bright rusty coastal rail here in Oregon, however I find I can add chalks to gain that bright rusty look after I’ve laid the track. This is a good area to experiment with. Unfortunately the Krylon Camouflage color suite doesn’t include a good “rail rust” color. I’ve tried the Sand 4295 but that doesn’t have the look I want. I will say the PollyScale Rust seems to almost “soak in” and it’s not quite bright enough in my opinion. In the photos here, this was made with the PollyScale Rust color. I spray applied this with my inexpensive Harbor Freight airbrush. I diluted my PS Rust color with about 10% airbrush extender and 10% distilled water to help it flow better. I use about 40psi. Airbrushing acrylics is subject matter for another article. I let this dry overnight in my 80 degree drying box, but I think any dry environment at room temperature will suffice.
6) Tape removal! The best part. I do hope you find the paint stays put. You may experiment with different tape removal methods (speed & directions) to keep the paint intact (especially on ME track). Slowly worked best for me. You can touch it up.
I mentioned a few of the Krylon Camoflauge colors. Although I haven’t tried them yet, I think there are other flat colors out there that will work, and I’m hunting around for the magic rust color. If you know of one you like, send me a name or a link please! Also, feel free to let me know how this track weathering method worked out for you. Overall I am quite pleased with the results.
-Rog
HO tunnel on Coastmans POTB Layout