Love using the cell cam at the end of the construction session to critique what happened. Here I have the bulkhead in place with piles. Ground goop is everywhere. Note the off-color board. If I can remember to do it I'll add a tiny circle of aluminum foil to cap off each piling. More photos below. There are some improvements needed! -R
After careful examination of other trestle photos including the one of the trestle I am attempting to model, I decided to go ahead and reconstruct the embankments rather than shore up the earth with several bulkheads. It appears that most wooden trestle embankments present a "U" shape versus protuberating, bulging areas of earth leading up to each bent. I speculate this is because if the earth is dealt with this way, it will have a tendency to slough off and in general present more problems than bulkheads will solve. Having said that, if you the reader can find me a photo where there is a large bulkhead directly behind a bent other than the end bents, I would love to see it.
Here are a few photos of the reconstruction (click for larger images). After removing the protuberating land masses (see previous post for photo) I used "ground goop" for the reshaping, then added crushed rock and scenic turf (WS Fine Turf Earth and Burnt Grass). I replaced one of the bents on the bridge in order to accommodate the new slope. I built up a portion of the end sills, then placed the bridge. While positioning the bridge, I added more Ground Goop to the ends of the piles, trying to make things appear as natural as possible. Installing the bridge was the toughest part; bad lighting, body straining over the layout trying to position everything just right, and the potential for getting the brown Ground Goop on the bridge.
Currently the rails are not connected to the ties; the plastic ties have been removed to accommodate the wooden trestle ties (16" spacing). Once everything is bone dry I will begin to work on gauging and fixing the rails to the ties. I will probably use canopy cement for that and possibly make up some homemade tie plates. I will drive a few spikes. Eventually I will get back to touching things up, adding a bit more Goop to the pile ends using a toothpick or #11 blade, covering bare ends, etc. Looks like I neglected to add NBW details!
As you can see in the prototype photo there are plenty of trees and shrubbery in the way. That's my wild card! Just in case anything "needs obscuring". -R
I'm sure I'm not the first to think of that phrase. Yes indeed, they do not go in perfectly.
And I need help. Now that I'm fitting the bridge to its' resting place, I see I am going to need to either build a retaining wall for all that earth, or knock it out. Now, a retaining wall might look neat, as long as it's not out of place. Therefore, here's where you come in. Check out the problem in the photo, then respond with your selection in the Poll below. Thanks! -Rog
I am not a Proto:87 modeler but I would speculate that using a cell phone cam, a scanner, a photo editor, and DraftSight would be very helpful in determining proper track gauge and detection of irregularities.
I just realized there is a better, more accurate option for generating precise drawings in DraftSight that address specific sections of track on the layout. This is yet another short trestle in the works. This time, however, I just used my cell phone to photograph the track where the custom bridge will go. I placed a white foamcore behind it just to get a clearer image. I then processed this in PhotoShop a bit to trim the picture, then brought it into DraftSight. The most difficult part was scaling the image to 1/87 which I have not yet found an option for. However I manually adjusted the scaling repeatedly until the distance between the rails was very close to 56.5 inches. I will do a test print and measure with scale ruler to make sure I'm on track before I draw the parts on top of the rails. :)
Slightly more progress. I've printed the HO template I created in DraftSight. I used 3M adhesive spray to hold in down on a scrap of plywood. Then I laid the ties, holding each with a "dot" of white glue at each end of every tie. Then I placed the stringers over ties, again using white glue. I was able to align the stringers in the correct locations by following the printed lines on the template.
In the photos I've completed the ties and stringer structure. You can see the template lines underneath. Note I'm off kilter with those stringers. The ones on the left side, I realized I need not cut all the way through. I cut 1/2 way by hand with my razor saw, then "snapped" the joint which resulted in perfect butt-end alignments, and a time saver for sure. But I should have kept an eye on the ends.
Once all was dry I removed the paper template and cleaned up the part with a wire wheel in a discount moto tool. Kudos to Mr. Frary for his 101 tips (now 202 and 303 tips!).
I removed the plastic ties from the code 83 ME rail along the curve where the trestle will go. The stringer/ties structure fit nicely under the bare rails.
When fitting the parts to the site on the layout, I will be alternating between installing bridge structure and completing scenery in order to avoid a "trestle trap" that could prevent easy provision of scenery details.
Here I'm trying to fit things together. I've removed the plastic ties from the ME83 rail I used for the curve. I cut into the hillside to accommodate the bent structure. I used clothespins to hold the ties/stringer structure under the rails. I needed an HO scale plumb bob, but sans that I used a Sharpie and marked the bent sites where I thought they should go.
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